After 3 hours on a bus and 4 hours of sleep, the mini flying marathon began on Christmas Day. Our first flight to Shanghai was uneventful, besides my discovery that while Christmas music had the power to instantly make you feel joyful and festive the whole month before Christmas, when that day actually comes and you’re sitting on a plane, the music somehow loses that effect. It’s not that it made me sad or nostalgic for home, it’s just that it felt off- like blasting hard-core rap while doing yoga. It just didn’t fit.
In Shanghai, while we were being transported to our connecting flight via an airport shuttle which took us away from the main terminal and to deserted tarmac, I hypothesized that this was the airstrip for all the derelict planes, because there would be fewer people around to see the planes if the crashed and burned during take-off or landing. I wasn’t really convinced of the validity of my own hypothesis until we ended up sitting on the plane for over two hours while it was repeatedly announced that there was going to be a “few minute delay” due to mechanical problems.
When we finally landed in Bangkok and got a hold of our luggage, we had 30 minutes until our third and final flight took off. Let’s just say there was some Amazing Race-esque full-out running and careening through that airport, with some encouraging/insistent shouting of "Run! Run!" from gate agents thrown in for good measure. However, when landed on Koh Samui and encountered the glorious smell of flowers and a temperature well above -6, the stress and frustration of traveling dissipated at record speed.
Yes, ladies and gentlemen, I lived on the beach! The view from my porch.
You remember that one morning when you were kind of startled awake and you were laying there trying to figure out what it was that woke you up and then you realized it was your dad nudging you and telling you you were late for work because your alarm didn't go off and then suddenly you were wide awake (when usually it would take a hot shower, a silent breakfast where no one talks to you because they know you hate mornings and a 20 minute commute to wake you up)? Well, that sort of thing happened to me my first morning in Thailand, only it was the unfamiliar smell of flowers that startled me awake and I didn't have to speed to work- instead I took two steps off my porch to Amity's open-air restaurant and ordered a breakfast of French toast with honey, a fruit salad, and freshly squeezed orange juice. . .
. . and this was my view. Every meal was like this, but one - literally on the beach or a few steps of it. Speaking of eating, I'm officially in love with Thai food. . .spring rolls, pad thai, Thai curry, fried egg noodles, fried rice, fresh fruit. . .
We spent Sunday uneventfully lounging on the beach and went to Lamai centre that evening for some shopping at the Sunday night market before we checked out Rock Bar- which is literally a bar on the rocks-and watched an amazing(-ly shirtless, well muscled and tattooed) Thai fire dancer.
Monday was another beach lounging day, although it wasn't so uneventful as the previous day due to a certain "large waves vs bathing bottom" episode that happened to a person whom shall remain nameless and which, once it was over with, was admittedly quite a hilarious incident. That evening we tested out the famous Thai bucket and checked out Swing Bar, which like Rock Bar, was true to its name. It had swings instead of stools at the bar- although you can't really swing because you just end up smashing into the bar, but I applaud the originality of the idea.
Tuesday morning we headed out on an excursion which involved. . .
. . .eating and drinking from a coconout. I like sunscreen, but I don't like drinking it. . . .holding a sticker-eating baby monkey after watching a monkey show, a.k.a. a trained monkey on a rope climbing a tree and throwing down coconuts
. . . RIDING BAREBACK ON AN ELEPHANT!! I didn't have to share my elephant, so I was able to ride on her neck the whole time! She was 8 months pregnant, by the way, which made me feel a little guilty.
. . .and finally, we went to a couple Buddhist temples/shrines. No sock comments necessary.
Wednesday was another beach lounging day, with a little market shopping thrown in. Nothing noteworthy happened.
On Thursday we went on an island boat tour to Ang Thong National Marine Park where we. . .
. . . hiked to Thale Nai, the beautiful salt water lagoon in Koh Mae Ko.
. . . then made our way to Koh Wua Talap where we didn't end up snorkeling thanks to a recent monsoon which left the water less than clear. We did hike to Bua Boke cave which had stalagmite and stalactite formations, then lounged at the beach and watched a Thai versus Indian pick-up volleyball game.
After making our way back to Koh Samui (via a boat ride with some pretty consistent pitching and rolling. Unaware of what we were to experience, we initially claimed spots on the flat roof of the boat and were, from the moment of departure, committed to said location because walking upright was basically impossible and crawling wasn't much less of a potentially humiliating option) we went out for dinner where I had my first encounter with one of Thailand's infamous lady-boys, who was our waiter (waitress?) and saw a cabaret show at Chaweng Beach which ended splendidly with some ABBA!
Friday was another beach lounging day (yes, I realize I've been using "lounging" a lot, but it just describes so perfectly- kind of like the word "hunkered"- haha) which included an amazing Thai massage. That night we made our way to the New Year's Eve Full Moon Party at Haad Rin Beach on Koh Phangan which involved waiting on a beach for an hour for our numbers to be called for the speedboat and then assertively keeping our places in line to get on the boat so as not to be pushed out of the way by aggressive line-cutters (Seriously, even my 5 year old kindergarteners know line-cutting is not acceptable, and at the very least if there's any dispute there should be a rock-paper-scissors throw down to determine who stays and who goes to the back of the line!) We eventually made it to Haad Rin Beach by 10:30pm to join the party of 10 000 people and then left by 1:00am before the real craziness started. We didn't make it home til 3:30am due to the line up for the speedboats and the fact that I was unwilling to fight for my place against aggressive drunk people for fear that either they would fall of the dock or push me off. During the wait I did meet some nice, sober Americans and had some intellectual conversations- as a result of which I am now somewhat converted regarding my opinion of the American health care system.
At midnight. He's a photo-crasher.
Saturday was our last day which involved getting my hair cut and lounging (snuck that in there one last time) on the beach before leaving at 7 pm for our, thankfully, uneventful 18 hour journey home to the cold.
Another festive photo of some different ladies